HISTORY
The journey of peptides in skincare is relatively recent but rooted in significant scientific advancements. The term "peptide" originates from the Greek word "peptos," meaning "digested." Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins. Their potential in skincare was realized in the late 20th century, following groundbreaking research in biochemistry and molecular biology. Initially identified in the early 1900s, it wasn't until the 1950s and 1960s that scientists began to understand their complex roles in biological processes. The discovery of insulin, a peptide hormone, by Frederick Banting and Charles Best in 1921, set the stage for further peptide research, though it took several decades for the beauty industry to recognize their potential in skincare.
In the 1980s, skincare brands started to incorporate peptides into their formulations, capitalizing on their ability to communicate with cells and stimulate various skin functions. Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, also known as Matrixyl, was one of the first peptides to gain popularity for its collagen-boosting properties, marking the beginning of a peptide revolution in the skincare industry. Advances in biotechnology have since allowed for the synthesis of various peptide sequences tailored for specific skincare benefits.
SCIENCE
One of the primary benefits of peptides is their ability to boost collagen production. Collagen is a structural protein that keeps skin firm and youthful. As we age, collagen production decreases, leading to sagging and wrinkles. Peptides like Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 can stimulate collagen synthesis, helping to maintain skin's elasticity and firmness.
Peptides also play a crucial role in repairing the skin barrier, which is essential for protecting against environmental aggressors and retaining moisture. Peptides such as Acetyl Hexapeptide-37 can enhance skin barrier function, leading to improved hydration and resilience. A healthy skin barrier is vital for maintaining overall skin health and preventing conditions like dryness and irritation.
Certain peptides have anti-inflammatory properties, making them beneficial for soothing irritated skin. For example, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 can reduce inflammation and prevent the breakdown of collagen caused by inflammatory responses. This anti-inflammatory effect can help calm redness, swelling, and discomfort, providing a more even and youthful complexion.
Studies have shown impressive results from the use of peptides in skincare. Peptides like Matrixyl can double the amount of collagen in the skin, significantly improving skin texture and firmness. Research indicates that peptide-infused moisturizers can increase skin hydration by up to 50% within a few weeks of regular use. Additionally, clinical trials have demonstrated that topical application of peptide-rich creams can reduce the depth of wrinkles by 30-45% over a 12-week period, highlighting their potential for anti-aging skincare.
REFERENCES
- Diehl, C. (2019) 'Peptides in cosmeceuticals', Ukrainian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology, Cosmetology, 1, pp. 28-35.
- West, B.J., Alabi, I. and Deng, S. (2021) 'A face serum containing bakuchiol, palmitoyl tripeptide-38, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid and a polyherbal and vitamin blend improves skin quality in human volunteers and protects skin structure in vitro', Preprints, 2021060580.
- Schagen, S.K. (2017) 'Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results', Cosmetics, 4(2), 16.
